So, it has been a week since I last wrote, no?
I have to not let that happen too often. Otherwise you will get bored and stop reading.
The next day I left on a college road trip with my brother Jake... we went up to LA where we stayed on the West side with my old roommate, Dzuy.... from FRESHMAN year.... it was cool because Jake heard about some of the things he may experience at school... he still has his whole senior year ahead of him plus an insane water polo season upcoming, but its good to do some research about unversities while there are resources. And the next morning, we drove to downtown LA so I could pass my passport off to the Japanese consulate... this is actually going to happen.
From there we headed up to Venti, Santa Barbara and Goleta (UCSB) before arriving at Gaviota State Beach where we were to spend the night... when we reserved it I remember laughing at description about strong winds... well, they were strong alright... AND i somehow forgot the tent (rather typical actually), so we both slept in the car... Toyota Camry, this is a plug for you!
Next day, up to San Luis Obispo... i had never been there so it was refreshing to explore a new town... pretty mellow and peaceful place... Jake loved it and I wondered why i spent 4 years in the City of Angeles when SLO was there the whole time...
We drove back down the coast and through Venice Beach before getting back late that Saturday night... I still managed to meet Wayne in Oceanside for dinner at the best Denny's on the west coast (quality-wise). Next day sent me back to LA to see: Barry (CONGRATS!) for our usual experience of walking, talking and eating; Cara to say, "Hello, dear how are you," in my obnoxious pseudo-english accent, to pass around maps and guide books of Zion Canyon and South America for current and future travel plans; and Schechteezy... up till 4am discussing gear and our upcoming trip... "sometimes you just gotta call them the stiffs they are."
Back to Irvine for another wonderful day in Paradise... getting ready for this prep-backpacking weekend. Actually, I spent most of the day with Laura (my new friend from the plane ride back from Santiago) in Huntington and Newport beaches. Off to San Diego the next day... beach at La Jolla shores with Wayne, checking up on young MC, XAVIER RUDD concert- who, by the way, is an amazing human being and musician. The guy exemplifies peace and beauty through music and smiling... you'll have to see him- i suggest from the very front and center at the House of Blues nearest you. Wonderful time passed the following afternoon with the grandparents and soccer (or futbol) with Wayne and Gary... I dont remember what happened, just that it was awesome to run around and that i have painful strawberries from sliding (when I was even told not to!) Upwards and onwards and northwards to San Clemente to a lovely dinner party at Bonnie's... great to take maté with Blake and to make some new friends and see some old ones. And somehow I got to sleep last night at a reasonable time.
My average is 5 hours a night over the past week... this includes a night of three hours too... it has been insane, i am on the verge of collapse and yet I have never felt better. Life is too short to waste a second. But every second that passes is not that important. What am I trying to say? That I am not necessary efficient with my time, but that there is so much beauty to share and be a part of, so I am moving and moving and moving.... addicted to traveling- even here at home- to experience as much life as I can. But life is so unimportant that none of this madness matters anyhow....
The point: _______
Exactly,
next post, soon.......
2007-06-28
2007-06-20
Continued Pacific Paradise (a different one) and discussion of "Home"
I touched down at LAX last Sunday morning and it was overcast and ugly, whereas minutes before it had been sunny and amazing (above the clouds). But I was smiling so much, so happy to be "home," knowing the overcast, June gloom burns off by 10 or 11. So true, and Drew picked me up and drove me back to Irvine where we shot some hoops and skated (him, not me) around the park under sparkling sunshine.
So much that I want to write, so here it goes...
Drew, he is the man. And there is a link to his blog over on the right, scroll down, you'll find it. We are nearly twins. Close birthdays and similar attitudes. He is the tall blond swimmer and I am the shorter brunette runner. I was involved in many season of outdoor education and guiding after university and he went to Japan to teach English... I leave for Japan in July and he will continue facilitating in the outdoor world. We are so close and flip-flop our interests, but at the end of the day we discuss what really matters and re-charge to take on another day; we fly out of the gates before the other horses wake up- excited to be alive and fired-up to be. It's bizarre to meet someone so similar to you because they already know how your stories end, as they have already done it. But we manage to laugh at the jokes we've told each other (or that we haven't but we might as well have) and the stories we have shared too. We even laugh off the pain of being traveling bachelors despite our true sentiments to settle down... but some things just aren't possible.
How do I feel right now? I have missed summer in Irvine... it is just amazing. It is sunny and the sun is up for a while. It is a stark contrast to my night living in Santiago. Though Patagonia had lots of sun too, that was five months ago and the seasons have changed a lot for me. I am confused about summers and winters by crossing the equator so many times and then being in the mountains recently doubled it back over because the tropics and high altitude change it again. If you are as confused as I am, then I have succeeded in explaining myself correctly.
I am so happy to be home. I was somewhat depressed, despite traveling and seeing so much. But that was a very important experience. As Alan Watts reminded me, "A circular saw cuts because it has peaks AND valleys. If it just had teeth, it couldn't cut and if it just had valleys, it couldn't cut either. It needs both in order to be effective." I learned that downs are just as important as ups, as both are natural parts of life. Though difficult, I now am satisfied with the perspective I gained by living a "dark" life for the past couple months.
I am so happy to be home. I am focused and have the plan figured out. The fun part about my planning is that it always changes, regardless of the plan I've made. But now, with options, directions and doors to open, I am just excited to wake up in the morning... like this morning, my body was destroyed after playing basketball for hours yesterday, staying up late writing and reading. But my brain was wide awake with more energy than I've felt in years. And my brain forced the poor body out of bed to live a long day... and tomorrow will be even worse, I am sore already from playing soccer only two hours ago... it will hurt, but I am already excited to wake up tomorrow.
I am so happy to be home. "Home," even though I am always moving and never really have a home- temporary dwellings and places to stay, I have... but my own home, nope. I am very happy to be living under my parent's roof. It is great to spend time with my family and being around friends during such a wonderful time of year. But when I say "Home," I refer to the sense of being... at peace with myself- a connection among body and mind and soul and spirit. I am home and it has taken me a long time to get here... and now that I am here, I am even more free to travel, to go anywhere, to be free.
I have wandered since graduation three years ago and began exploring the world. It seemed like the only thing to do, at least self-consciously. Despite my only seeing a bit of the world, I have managed to meet so many people and work in so many different settings. And through all of this, I've managed to place myself exactly where I need to be. Like my father told me, "You are looking for something 6000 miles away, but you are going to laugh when you discover you've had it the whole time." I'm laughing and he's right. And now I'm laughing because this is the second time I've admitted that he's right in the past day. HAHAHAHA.
I've spent the past few days shooting hoops, playing soccer with the same crew at the JCC, pushing papers for my upcoming year in Japan and just being plain busy. This used to irritate me. To work, to go, to move so fast. But i love it now and I am super amped to be doing it. I know I will slow down and maybe feel down too. Being aware of this, however, is important and also will make me happy. Life, like the saw, can't work properly without its ups and downs. I am excited for the upcoming downs, but right now I am riding on the ups.
Welcome back to the US. Welcome Home Dave. Welcome back to life.
So much that I want to write, so here it goes...
Drew, he is the man. And there is a link to his blog over on the right, scroll down, you'll find it. We are nearly twins. Close birthdays and similar attitudes. He is the tall blond swimmer and I am the shorter brunette runner. I was involved in many season of outdoor education and guiding after university and he went to Japan to teach English... I leave for Japan in July and he will continue facilitating in the outdoor world. We are so close and flip-flop our interests, but at the end of the day we discuss what really matters and re-charge to take on another day; we fly out of the gates before the other horses wake up- excited to be alive and fired-up to be. It's bizarre to meet someone so similar to you because they already know how your stories end, as they have already done it. But we manage to laugh at the jokes we've told each other (or that we haven't but we might as well have) and the stories we have shared too. We even laugh off the pain of being traveling bachelors despite our true sentiments to settle down... but some things just aren't possible.
How do I feel right now? I have missed summer in Irvine... it is just amazing. It is sunny and the sun is up for a while. It is a stark contrast to my night living in Santiago. Though Patagonia had lots of sun too, that was five months ago and the seasons have changed a lot for me. I am confused about summers and winters by crossing the equator so many times and then being in the mountains recently doubled it back over because the tropics and high altitude change it again. If you are as confused as I am, then I have succeeded in explaining myself correctly.
I am so happy to be home. I was somewhat depressed, despite traveling and seeing so much. But that was a very important experience. As Alan Watts reminded me, "A circular saw cuts because it has peaks AND valleys. If it just had teeth, it couldn't cut and if it just had valleys, it couldn't cut either. It needs both in order to be effective." I learned that downs are just as important as ups, as both are natural parts of life. Though difficult, I now am satisfied with the perspective I gained by living a "dark" life for the past couple months.
I am so happy to be home. I am focused and have the plan figured out. The fun part about my planning is that it always changes, regardless of the plan I've made. But now, with options, directions and doors to open, I am just excited to wake up in the morning... like this morning, my body was destroyed after playing basketball for hours yesterday, staying up late writing and reading. But my brain was wide awake with more energy than I've felt in years. And my brain forced the poor body out of bed to live a long day... and tomorrow will be even worse, I am sore already from playing soccer only two hours ago... it will hurt, but I am already excited to wake up tomorrow.
I am so happy to be home. "Home," even though I am always moving and never really have a home- temporary dwellings and places to stay, I have... but my own home, nope. I am very happy to be living under my parent's roof. It is great to spend time with my family and being around friends during such a wonderful time of year. But when I say "Home," I refer to the sense of being... at peace with myself- a connection among body and mind and soul and spirit. I am home and it has taken me a long time to get here... and now that I am here, I am even more free to travel, to go anywhere, to be free.
I have wandered since graduation three years ago and began exploring the world. It seemed like the only thing to do, at least self-consciously. Despite my only seeing a bit of the world, I have managed to meet so many people and work in so many different settings. And through all of this, I've managed to place myself exactly where I need to be. Like my father told me, "You are looking for something 6000 miles away, but you are going to laugh when you discover you've had it the whole time." I'm laughing and he's right. And now I'm laughing because this is the second time I've admitted that he's right in the past day. HAHAHAHA.
I've spent the past few days shooting hoops, playing soccer with the same crew at the JCC, pushing papers for my upcoming year in Japan and just being plain busy. This used to irritate me. To work, to go, to move so fast. But i love it now and I am super amped to be doing it. I know I will slow down and maybe feel down too. Being aware of this, however, is important and also will make me happy. Life, like the saw, can't work properly without its ups and downs. I am excited for the upcoming downs, but right now I am riding on the ups.
Welcome back to the US. Welcome Home Dave. Welcome back to life.
2007-06-15
This one is wild and wacky, woozy and doozy... and long
So, I spent most of Sunday feeling cold and rather ill, without much appetite and a continuation of bad gas. I nearly knocked myself out that day… THAT bad. Monday, I got worse and finally I worked up the courage in Spanish to find myself to the hospital. I got a good ole IV stuck in my arm for a couple hours and a, “come back tomorrow in the morning,” sort of talk. When I returned back the apartment in the afternoon, my neighbor, friend, landlord, Maria Teresa encouraged me, in my delirium, to get back to that hospital until I knew what was wrong with me. I nearly keeled over on my way back to the clínica and with extreme pain in my midsection, was admitted, and hospitalized. Back on the IV and ready for my first ever extended-time in a hospital.
I have been rather fortunate to be the son of two amazing doctors who have always helped me differentiate broken limbs from illnesses. They can attest to the many idiotic and random injuries I have incurred throughout the 25 years I’ve managed to poodle along. So, they may read this and wonder why I didn’t involve them in the madness… why, they were on vacation and there’s nothing that they could have done anyhow! And, as normal with my traveling experiences, it might as well be that my first hospitalization ever occurred in Spanish… just to make it more fun!
A couple of scans, toying with my food (hospitals are notorious, and I now know why!), and watching the body’s reactions, was a fine experience for a day… then two… and finally three! I have insurance and I hope that it all works out, (I have yet to pay at the time of writing) because it seems to be an expensive endeavor to stay oneself in a hospital for three nights. Though the service is nice, formal and friendly, most expensive hotels don’t rack up the bill like the sick-house does, even with room service! Then again, I have never been able to control the ups and downs on my bed in most hotels either… you get what you pay for!
Short of it, I am fine, sort of. I am on a “light-regimented” diet… which means I can only eat the things I am trying to avoid eating, while suffering because I can’t eat the things I am trying to get more of. The ** from my previous post is for the goat cheese… and after a day out of the pen, I think that it was my overdose on queso de cabra in Vicuña that must have done me in. Those empanadas were so good I couldn’t resist… but my body wasn’t ready for the punishment I was about to inflict… nor did I know that I was attempting suicide by eating this. But I will finally admit that I may be somewhat lactose intolerant. I'm gonna try the doc tomorrow to see if he can give me a remedy to this possible bacterial madness.
And the other half of the short of it (probably more like the “long of it”) is that my body wanted to come back to Santiago… and it made it in the perfect time to take care of the problem. Though my mind had wanted me to stay in the Elqui Valley a bit longer, my traveling “ended” three days early… but not really because I was meant to be back to be nursed back to health. I thought I had just been having the typical traveler’s stomach, as it gets used to new places, foods and situations… but I apparently had a problem. Things work out and I will suffer with some more pain and a horribly bland diet as I get back to the States… I can just be happy to be alive still (true at the time of writing) despite the raging intestines and the whole payment thing. I watched the rain for three days from a hospital bed and the distant Andes now are peaked with gorgeous white snow....
NEXT!
I woke up in the hospital and it was pouring rain… which means fresh mountain snow. Though I was released in the morning, the problem is that the nightmare had just begun. I checked the ski resorts and they were about to open. The biggest one offered 75% off the price of lift tickets and the other ones are absolutely free… to ride the chair lifts to the top! It had been raining, dumping, flooding the Santiago streets for three solid days… and there are rumors of two, even four meters of snow at the local resorts. I inquired about a snowboard rental, as mine is in California, and I turned into a translator between some Aussie tourists and the store owners. This earned me a discount on a brand new board rental.
Why is this a nightmare you ask?
1) Six feet of fresh powder that not many people will get up to the top to ride. Firstly, because it was a workday and secondly because Chileans I know don’t get off the groomers.
2) The slopes are free to ride
3) Oh yeah, it is OPENING WEEKEND
4) I missed last season in North America because I was down here
5) SIX FEET OF FRESH POWDER!
6) Statistically, I can finally check off June as the last month of the year that I have snowboarded.
7) A major discount on a board rental… a big, heavy, de-tuned, free-ride, Rossi, 164… my size and style…
8) SIX FEET, possibly TWELVE FEET OF FRESH POWDER!
Everything is ready, I am ready to abandon my intestinal problems and the diet and even get re-admitted to the hospital. What kind of snowboarder would I be if I didn’t hit the slopes under these conditions? But that is the nightmare- I checked and tried and I COULDN’T get there…
Under bluebird conditions today, the slopes were open, but the road, the only road up there is closed by the same fresh, soft, pristine, white, six-foot blanket of Andes powder that tops the hills. The normal morning bus had been postponed indefinitely. Hitchhiking is always a possibility, but there was no traffic going.
An idea, “Dave, just go the next day, there will be plenty of pow pow even though it won’t be the freshest.” The response, “I will be on a plane approaching sunny Los Angeles, California.”
Three days in a hospital and the associated gastro-intestinal problems is nothing… actually, it sucks, even now. But the real pain is seeing the snow that I just can’t ride.
Despite the continued-aching in my midsection (caused by my slightly breaking the diet last night- NOT gonna happen again!) and my body's longing to the slopes, I am happy and excited. Friends and acquaintances here are already excited for my inevitable volver a Chile. They are making accommodations for me and planning future excursions to places I have yet to visit. They continue to make me yearn for more time in this wonderful Pacific paradise. They ask when I will be back. And my response is the same as always, and the truth...
Soon.
I have been rather fortunate to be the son of two amazing doctors who have always helped me differentiate broken limbs from illnesses. They can attest to the many idiotic and random injuries I have incurred throughout the 25 years I’ve managed to poodle along. So, they may read this and wonder why I didn’t involve them in the madness… why, they were on vacation and there’s nothing that they could have done anyhow! And, as normal with my traveling experiences, it might as well be that my first hospitalization ever occurred in Spanish… just to make it more fun!
A couple of scans, toying with my food (hospitals are notorious, and I now know why!), and watching the body’s reactions, was a fine experience for a day… then two… and finally three! I have insurance and I hope that it all works out, (I have yet to pay at the time of writing) because it seems to be an expensive endeavor to stay oneself in a hospital for three nights. Though the service is nice, formal and friendly, most expensive hotels don’t rack up the bill like the sick-house does, even with room service! Then again, I have never been able to control the ups and downs on my bed in most hotels either… you get what you pay for!
Short of it, I am fine, sort of. I am on a “light-regimented” diet… which means I can only eat the things I am trying to avoid eating, while suffering because I can’t eat the things I am trying to get more of. The ** from my previous post is for the goat cheese… and after a day out of the pen, I think that it was my overdose on queso de cabra in Vicuña that must have done me in. Those empanadas were so good I couldn’t resist… but my body wasn’t ready for the punishment I was about to inflict… nor did I know that I was attempting suicide by eating this. But I will finally admit that I may be somewhat lactose intolerant. I'm gonna try the doc tomorrow to see if he can give me a remedy to this possible bacterial madness.
And the other half of the short of it (probably more like the “long of it”) is that my body wanted to come back to Santiago… and it made it in the perfect time to take care of the problem. Though my mind had wanted me to stay in the Elqui Valley a bit longer, my traveling “ended” three days early… but not really because I was meant to be back to be nursed back to health. I thought I had just been having the typical traveler’s stomach, as it gets used to new places, foods and situations… but I apparently had a problem. Things work out and I will suffer with some more pain and a horribly bland diet as I get back to the States… I can just be happy to be alive still (true at the time of writing) despite the raging intestines and the whole payment thing. I watched the rain for three days from a hospital bed and the distant Andes now are peaked with gorgeous white snow....
NEXT!
I woke up in the hospital and it was pouring rain… which means fresh mountain snow. Though I was released in the morning, the problem is that the nightmare had just begun. I checked the ski resorts and they were about to open. The biggest one offered 75% off the price of lift tickets and the other ones are absolutely free… to ride the chair lifts to the top! It had been raining, dumping, flooding the Santiago streets for three solid days… and there are rumors of two, even four meters of snow at the local resorts. I inquired about a snowboard rental, as mine is in California, and I turned into a translator between some Aussie tourists and the store owners. This earned me a discount on a brand new board rental.
Why is this a nightmare you ask?
1) Six feet of fresh powder that not many people will get up to the top to ride. Firstly, because it was a workday and secondly because Chileans I know don’t get off the groomers.
2) The slopes are free to ride
3) Oh yeah, it is OPENING WEEKEND
4) I missed last season in North America because I was down here
5) SIX FEET OF FRESH POWDER!
6) Statistically, I can finally check off June as the last month of the year that I have snowboarded.
7) A major discount on a board rental… a big, heavy, de-tuned, free-ride, Rossi, 164… my size and style…
8) SIX FEET, possibly TWELVE FEET OF FRESH POWDER!
Everything is ready, I am ready to abandon my intestinal problems and the diet and even get re-admitted to the hospital. What kind of snowboarder would I be if I didn’t hit the slopes under these conditions? But that is the nightmare- I checked and tried and I COULDN’T get there…
Under bluebird conditions today, the slopes were open, but the road, the only road up there is closed by the same fresh, soft, pristine, white, six-foot blanket of Andes powder that tops the hills. The normal morning bus had been postponed indefinitely. Hitchhiking is always a possibility, but there was no traffic going.
An idea, “Dave, just go the next day, there will be plenty of pow pow even though it won’t be the freshest.” The response, “I will be on a plane approaching sunny Los Angeles, California.”
Three days in a hospital and the associated gastro-intestinal problems is nothing… actually, it sucks, even now. But the real pain is seeing the snow that I just can’t ride.
Despite the continued-aching in my midsection (caused by my slightly breaking the diet last night- NOT gonna happen again!) and my body's longing to the slopes, I am happy and excited. Friends and acquaintances here are already excited for my inevitable volver a Chile. They are making accommodations for me and planning future excursions to places I have yet to visit. They continue to make me yearn for more time in this wonderful Pacific paradise. They ask when I will be back. And my response is the same as always, and the truth...
Soon.
Big mines, more copper, energy valley
Onward to a day in Calama… a lovely place during the day, but it apparently gets cold at night… I didn’t hang around that long.
Immediately made plans to see Chuquicamata… the world’s biggest open pit copper mine… I have gotten so used to the world’s biggest “this” and best “that,” that I just went to see an impressive place. My expectations, though ruinous sometimes, were met… and it was just a gi-normous mine… owned by the state of Chile… and they pump out a bunch of copper. Huge trucks carrying outrageous loads of rock. The mine is 5000X3000 meters and nearly 1 km deep… spiraling down, wow. I forget other numbers but it costs them $0.80 to produce an amount of copper… which is sold in the USA and Europe for a current rate of $3.18…. as low as $3.00 and as high as $3.40 in the past three years. I don’t do numbers professionally, but a 400% return is an ok figure as far as business goes, right, Dash? Supply and demand at its best… so long as Chile keeps gouging a stupid world that pays it… why not… and the Chileans benefit… the goal is that they all benefit… it is a slow process, especially when everyone knows the money exists, everyone wants it. Such is life. The government has a lot on its hands, but it had better fix the public transit system in Santiago before all hell breaks loose!
Tried to stop off and see penguins… and waiting around at 6am for city government offices to open in Vallenar- a place not used to seeing Gringos like me- was a cold one indeed! That was a failure. So I pushed on four more hours south to La Serena (where I could have actually booked the penguin excursion) and settled for lunch another hour east, in Vicuña. I had been here before with Adam, Jake and Cara three years ago. We escaped floods in the capital to get to this energy location… a trend with my trip… energy locales, right?
I enjoyed the most wonderful empanadas, filled with goat cheese**, corn, other fresh veggies… though, I did have a chicken one too, despite my attempts at veggie-hood. Hiked to see the sunset, but the clouds that colored the sky prevented me (twice) from going to the Mamaluca Observatory- because this Valle Elqui has the clearest skies in the world to see stars (300 days of the year, or when I am not there!). I headed deeper into the valley, explored Pisco Elqui again and was convinced to stay overnight. (Incidentally, Pisco, a Chilean sense of national liquorical pride, is made in this valley with the same name…) I rented a bike and had time to delve into nearby canyons to sneak a glance deep into the Andes at other angles… towards Cochihuaz in the afternoon and to Horcón the next morning.
There was about to be a rodeo while I was in Horcón, a rad artisan village (with a bunch of great vibes), but I had to return the bike in Pisco. I had planned to hitchhike back to the town, but my body just headed back towards Vicuna and towards La Serena to get that last minute bargain to arrive in Santiago in the morning. I don’t know what happened; I called it quits three days early.
When I arrived in Santiago at 5:50am on Sunday I waited in the dark cold for a bus to come. I had thought of taking the metro, but it doesn’t open until much later. As the thoughts of taking a cab filled my mind, a bus finally stopped and I crammed in to the back along with the others who had wanted to pay, but didn’t have the patience to go in the front door… so typical with the TranSanti-fiasco.
And this is where the story gets interesting…
Immediately made plans to see Chuquicamata… the world’s biggest open pit copper mine… I have gotten so used to the world’s biggest “this” and best “that,” that I just went to see an impressive place. My expectations, though ruinous sometimes, were met… and it was just a gi-normous mine… owned by the state of Chile… and they pump out a bunch of copper. Huge trucks carrying outrageous loads of rock. The mine is 5000X3000 meters and nearly 1 km deep… spiraling down, wow. I forget other numbers but it costs them $0.80 to produce an amount of copper… which is sold in the USA and Europe for a current rate of $3.18…. as low as $3.00 and as high as $3.40 in the past three years. I don’t do numbers professionally, but a 400% return is an ok figure as far as business goes, right, Dash? Supply and demand at its best… so long as Chile keeps gouging a stupid world that pays it… why not… and the Chileans benefit… the goal is that they all benefit… it is a slow process, especially when everyone knows the money exists, everyone wants it. Such is life. The government has a lot on its hands, but it had better fix the public transit system in Santiago before all hell breaks loose!
Tried to stop off and see penguins… and waiting around at 6am for city government offices to open in Vallenar- a place not used to seeing Gringos like me- was a cold one indeed! That was a failure. So I pushed on four more hours south to La Serena (where I could have actually booked the penguin excursion) and settled for lunch another hour east, in Vicuña. I had been here before with Adam, Jake and Cara three years ago. We escaped floods in the capital to get to this energy location… a trend with my trip… energy locales, right?
I enjoyed the most wonderful empanadas, filled with goat cheese**, corn, other fresh veggies… though, I did have a chicken one too, despite my attempts at veggie-hood. Hiked to see the sunset, but the clouds that colored the sky prevented me (twice) from going to the Mamaluca Observatory- because this Valle Elqui has the clearest skies in the world to see stars (300 days of the year, or when I am not there!). I headed deeper into the valley, explored Pisco Elqui again and was convinced to stay overnight. (Incidentally, Pisco, a Chilean sense of national liquorical pride, is made in this valley with the same name…) I rented a bike and had time to delve into nearby canyons to sneak a glance deep into the Andes at other angles… towards Cochihuaz in the afternoon and to Horcón the next morning.
There was about to be a rodeo while I was in Horcón, a rad artisan village (with a bunch of great vibes), but I had to return the bike in Pisco. I had planned to hitchhike back to the town, but my body just headed back towards Vicuna and towards La Serena to get that last minute bargain to arrive in Santiago in the morning. I don’t know what happened; I called it quits three days early.
When I arrived in Santiago at 5:50am on Sunday I waited in the dark cold for a bus to come. I had thought of taking the metro, but it doesn’t open until much later. As the thoughts of taking a cab filled my mind, a bus finally stopped and I crammed in to the back along with the others who had wanted to pay, but didn’t have the patience to go in the front door… so typical with the TranSanti-fiasco.
And this is where the story gets interesting…
2007-06-09
Back into Chile
I had left the coca leaves at the border and found my way to a hostel upon arriving in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. A spiritual place, a magical field of energy; one of the three major ones in Chile. This, and an over-touristy destination too. But, by travelling and wanting to see this place I contributing to the madness. I am not blaming eager tour salesmen and hostel … I am blaming us for over-tipping and traveling irresponsibly at times. The tourism insanity, especially in Bolivia and Peru, is outrageous and enraging, but hey, we are all responsible. When you go there, you will know what I am taking about…
San Pedro was a cool little spot despite the pestering flyer-passer-outers. I rented a bike and headed 17km down the highway for Valle de La Luna. A truly spiritual place… I did some spelunking through salt caves and found my way to the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) viewpoint, as the sun was setting… when everyone else arrived on tour buses. We hiked over a dune and posted up to watch the sun set, but more impressively, the backlight of the sunset against the Cordillera de los Andes (Andes Mountains). The coolest thing was that with each passing minute, the rocks changed colors… from beige to crimson to brick and royal purple before becoming altogether dark. Even the Licancabur Volcano played its role in the color-change scheme… and as I looked back at the range, I imagined the Bolivian that I know was on the other side… afterall, I had just crossed the border that morning. The I rode back on a choppy road… in the DARK...
Next is crazy Calama, but for now…
I am trying to catch the fotos up with the stories… enjoy.
Soon
San Pedro was a cool little spot despite the pestering flyer-passer-outers. I rented a bike and headed 17km down the highway for Valle de La Luna. A truly spiritual place… I did some spelunking through salt caves and found my way to the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) viewpoint, as the sun was setting… when everyone else arrived on tour buses. We hiked over a dune and posted up to watch the sun set, but more impressively, the backlight of the sunset against the Cordillera de los Andes (Andes Mountains). The coolest thing was that with each passing minute, the rocks changed colors… from beige to crimson to brick and royal purple before becoming altogether dark. Even the Licancabur Volcano played its role in the color-change scheme… and as I looked back at the range, I imagined the Bolivian that I know was on the other side… afterall, I had just crossed the border that morning. The I rode back on a choppy road… in the DARK...
Next is crazy Calama, but for now…
I am trying to catch the fotos up with the stories… enjoy.
Soon
2007-06-07
Salar de Uyuni- Part 2
So, I managed to get some photos up... I am running on a backlong, I can't even keep up with myself. I realized today that I am "ahead" of schedule... so silly... Even though I am flying along, my stories are two steps behind and my fotos haven't even finished the first lap.
The Salar was wonderful... I think what I liked the most was that the area was so remote that multiple times a day, in varying settings, I could sit and hear absolutely nothing... absolutely everything... and gaze off into the distances that one only dreams of as he sits near the top of the world. Pure white, relentless wind, freezing cold, smoking peaks and sunny days all mixed into one... words bungle up the description of awe. The Altiplano is an inspiring place.
Traveling by '97 Toyota Land Cruiser with two Bolivian guide/cooks and five strangers- who have become friends- was quite posibly the best way to pass three days. Repeated 80's classics like, "I Want to Know What Love Is" helped liven spirits every time the car broke down (we'll make it another five minutes, I promise!)
Back to the desolate... this Southwest Bolivia excursion was just another reminder that humans and their "power" is insignificant compared to the earth on which they reside. I watched from inches as geisers blew off steam in the morning sun, sat in natural springs reeking of sulfur and stared as the Volcano Ollague vented its impeding explosion... with all of the power of the planet, I was indeed humbled, awe-struck and at peace.
The six travelers: Irish, German, English, Swiss, Kiwi and me... As expected when traveling internationally, we all spoke a different language but we managed to communicate effectively!
What else? While riding the top of the Andes for so long- earth expressions, rainbow rock, distant desolateness, pristine peaks...
Carsten and I were dropped off at the Chilean border and the others headed back to Uyuni for... I have to catch up with more of the story, but this entry is long enough... I will save those words a bit longer, as the fotos pray for the chance to catch up too!
Soon
The Salar was wonderful... I think what I liked the most was that the area was so remote that multiple times a day, in varying settings, I could sit and hear absolutely nothing... absolutely everything... and gaze off into the distances that one only dreams of as he sits near the top of the world. Pure white, relentless wind, freezing cold, smoking peaks and sunny days all mixed into one... words bungle up the description of awe. The Altiplano is an inspiring place.
Traveling by '97 Toyota Land Cruiser with two Bolivian guide/cooks and five strangers- who have become friends- was quite posibly the best way to pass three days. Repeated 80's classics like, "I Want to Know What Love Is" helped liven spirits every time the car broke down (we'll make it another five minutes, I promise!)
Back to the desolate... this Southwest Bolivia excursion was just another reminder that humans and their "power" is insignificant compared to the earth on which they reside. I watched from inches as geisers blew off steam in the morning sun, sat in natural springs reeking of sulfur and stared as the Volcano Ollague vented its impeding explosion... with all of the power of the planet, I was indeed humbled, awe-struck and at peace.
The six travelers: Irish, German, English, Swiss, Kiwi and me... As expected when traveling internationally, we all spoke a different language but we managed to communicate effectively!
What else? While riding the top of the Andes for so long- earth expressions, rainbow rock, distant desolateness, pristine peaks...
Carsten and I were dropped off at the Chilean border and the others headed back to Uyuni for... I have to catch up with more of the story, but this entry is long enough... I will save those words a bit longer, as the fotos pray for the chance to catch up too!
Soon
2007-06-05
Help
I arrive at 7:40am on Sunday June 17th... in Los Angeles, CA!
Can you pick me up and take me to Irvine? Or can you let me chill out for a bit at your pad?
I promise to be jet-lagged, maybe grumpy and quite possible hairy (associatedly, smelly). I also promise to buy you Mexican food in return for your kindness---- i am dying for it!
Advertising on my own blog--- now that is weak!
Help?
Soon.
Can you pick me up and take me to Irvine? Or can you let me chill out for a bit at your pad?
I promise to be jet-lagged, maybe grumpy and quite possible hairy (associatedly, smelly). I also promise to buy you Mexican food in return for your kindness---- i am dying for it!
Advertising on my own blog--- now that is weak!
Help?
Soon.
Salar de Uyuni- Part 1
I left La Paz as planned and met up with Carsten from Germany who is closing out 10 months of traveling. We made friends with Nuala and Dani on the 12-hour bus ride with bed-seats, heat and a bathroom- which turned out to be 14 hours, in small seats, freezing cold and bathroom-less. This is just my commentary about the typical sales pitch that travelers find at bus stations in “third-world” countries. It was a fun experience, so was scraping ice off the inside of the windows in the morning!
We also met with Debbie and Brian and we booked a tour to see the Salar de Uyuni… 12,000 sq km of salt (a lake during the rainy season), associated volcanoes (you know I love these things!), geisers (seen from within feet this morning at sunrise, freezing cold (minus 20 Celsius last night), termas (not naked, but I wanted to); flamingos, foxes, vicuñas, llamas, altitudes up to 4800 meters, cactus---- yeah, pictures to follow once we six have the time to first send/upload/share them. Amazing to say the least… no, incredible.
I had to leave the Coca leaves at the Chilean border upon crossing this morning. They certainly helped with the altitude and understanding the culture. But I am in San Pedro de Atacama, looking to see some more amazing desert at the low altitude of 2500 meters [7500 feet] (down 2000m [6000 ft] from this morning).
My writing is in haste… I am trying to make a small entry and I’d really rather write more. Perhaps I will add some more stories later!
Soon
We also met with Debbie and Brian and we booked a tour to see the Salar de Uyuni… 12,000 sq km of salt (a lake during the rainy season), associated volcanoes (you know I love these things!), geisers (seen from within feet this morning at sunrise, freezing cold (minus 20 Celsius last night), termas (not naked, but I wanted to); flamingos, foxes, vicuñas, llamas, altitudes up to 4800 meters, cactus---- yeah, pictures to follow once we six have the time to first send/upload/share them. Amazing to say the least… no, incredible.
I had to leave the Coca leaves at the Chilean border upon crossing this morning. They certainly helped with the altitude and understanding the culture. But I am in San Pedro de Atacama, looking to see some more amazing desert at the low altitude of 2500 meters [7500 feet] (down 2000m [6000 ft] from this morning).
My writing is in haste… I am trying to make a small entry and I’d really rather write more. Perhaps I will add some more stories later!
Soon
2007-06-02
Island Time Part 2
I sit in La Paz as El Gran Poder festival rages throughout the city. It’s an all-day long carnival celebration. The costumes, dancing and music are awesome as they sparkle, flow and blare up and down the steep slopes that constitute roads in the Bolivian capital (Sucre officially, but La Paz too!). I am on an overnight bus tonight to head further south, as the time comes nearer when I have to reach Santiago…
After the western Titicaca islands, I crossed the border to Copacabana, Bolivia… you know, it had been an on-going theme to head over there. I had the opportunity to pass a day on the gorgeous, albeit cold, Isla del Sol. Nataniel, my Israeli soccer goal-scorer, was there and I met up with two Washingtonians, Allison and Galen and we enjoyed the sunset and the moonrise… and had, yes, again, fresh lake trout… a bit pricey, but well-worth the hour wait for that fish!
After a cold, but surreal sunrise with Nataniel, I met Greg from Boston and we made plans to spend the full moon on the Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon). It seemed like it was supposed to happen. A pleasant day exploring the ruins of the Sun Island with Al, Gale and Nate, led to great views and pictures (I’ll post them later!) and recollections of basketball greats like Manute Bol. Later on, Greg and I had no options, so we charted a boat to get us to the Isla de le Luna. We arrived with time to see the ruins there and then we (speaking for both of us, why not) watched in awe as the magnificently full moon rose directly over the middle of the Moon temple. As I heard waves crash against the rocks to the left and their echo bounce off the wall from the right, it made me ponder that perhaps the design of this spiritual plaza (in whose center we sat) was built with unique specifications, for a certain purpose- as the experience evoked a magical feeling… continuing to do so since it was created centuries ago…
We got back to the Isla del Sol, then a return trip on a locals’ boat to Copa. Another fabulous meal (a trend, no?) last night and we got to La Paz this morning. Greg heads towards the north and I head to the south, but it has been a good experience travelling with another explorer for a stint. We travellers are never actually alone… we meet who we are supposed to meet, to talk about the important subjects, to share energy and recharge for more exploration and sharing… this is me losing the thoughts in words.
Recently, I hadn’t felt complete as I moved from place to place- something unlike me… and I discovered that it was partly because I had expectations. As I get rid of my anticipations for the places I see, the people I may meet and the food I could encounter, life flows more naturally and I enjoy every living moment…each one just feels more real.
Would you believe Greg and I had another amazing lunch today? Would you believe that I haven’t eaten meat (fish doesn’t count) in five days and I still have the energy to walk and travel? Would you believe that I actually feel healthier and stronger and alive?
Soon…
After the western Titicaca islands, I crossed the border to Copacabana, Bolivia… you know, it had been an on-going theme to head over there. I had the opportunity to pass a day on the gorgeous, albeit cold, Isla del Sol. Nataniel, my Israeli soccer goal-scorer, was there and I met up with two Washingtonians, Allison and Galen and we enjoyed the sunset and the moonrise… and had, yes, again, fresh lake trout… a bit pricey, but well-worth the hour wait for that fish!
After a cold, but surreal sunrise with Nataniel, I met Greg from Boston and we made plans to spend the full moon on the Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon). It seemed like it was supposed to happen. A pleasant day exploring the ruins of the Sun Island with Al, Gale and Nate, led to great views and pictures (I’ll post them later!) and recollections of basketball greats like Manute Bol. Later on, Greg and I had no options, so we charted a boat to get us to the Isla de le Luna. We arrived with time to see the ruins there and then we (speaking for both of us, why not) watched in awe as the magnificently full moon rose directly over the middle of the Moon temple. As I heard waves crash against the rocks to the left and their echo bounce off the wall from the right, it made me ponder that perhaps the design of this spiritual plaza (in whose center we sat) was built with unique specifications, for a certain purpose- as the experience evoked a magical feeling… continuing to do so since it was created centuries ago…
We got back to the Isla del Sol, then a return trip on a locals’ boat to Copa. Another fabulous meal (a trend, no?) last night and we got to La Paz this morning. Greg heads towards the north and I head to the south, but it has been a good experience travelling with another explorer for a stint. We travellers are never actually alone… we meet who we are supposed to meet, to talk about the important subjects, to share energy and recharge for more exploration and sharing… this is me losing the thoughts in words.
Recently, I hadn’t felt complete as I moved from place to place- something unlike me… and I discovered that it was partly because I had expectations. As I get rid of my anticipations for the places I see, the people I may meet and the food I could encounter, life flows more naturally and I enjoy every living moment…each one just feels more real.
Would you believe Greg and I had another amazing lunch today? Would you believe that I haven’t eaten meat (fish doesn’t count) in five days and I still have the energy to walk and travel? Would you believe that I actually feel healthier and stronger and alive?
Soon…
2007-06-01
Island Time Part 1
As previously described, it was my destiny to be called back to Puno, despite attempts to pass through so quickly. I heeded Dante's advice and took a two-day trip to the local islands of Lake Titicaca (elev. 3810 meters- highest in the world.) The Uros are floating islands made of reeds. Though originally grounded in the lake (25 feet deep easily in the bay), the Uros islands break loose from the bottom during the rainy season when the lake (8560 square km- big!) rises up two meters (quite a bit of water, according to my mathematician friends). The Aymara-speaking Incan descendents then stack more reeds on top and the island becomes inhabitable. There are about 40 of these small floating islands, housing five to ten families with as many reed houses.
From that touristy stop, where I managed to learn a little bit of the Aymara language, we drifted to Amantani where the folks still use Quechua. (Remember, Quechua is the language reminant of the Incas who lived north of Puno- Peru and Ecuador- but Aymara is for places south of Puno- and into Bolivia). I was able to pratice the language another time as we arrived on an island for a homey experience. I stayed with Miguel, from Valencia, Spain , in Emiliana and Ruben's quaint island home. We ate the island-grown carrots and potatoes, eggs and breads in the forms of soups, stews and sandwiches, without any meat. Healthy and real describe that place- No wonder Ruben told us his uncle has been living for 130 years!!! Beautiful sunsets and sunrises left me in awe as I climbed to the tops of both Pachatata and Pachamama (Mother Earth and Father Earth)... The second day I had an amazing, fresh, Titcaca trout after a small tour of the island called Taquille (no, not the drink!)... and then the arrival in Puno. I finished up the investigation with the police and they encouraged me to continue the journey...
So, I tried crossing the border again... except this time, it was closed when our bus arrived. It was because the border and customs officials insisted on playing a soccer (fútbol) game... an international one. And it was impossible for anyone to pass until this happened. I joined up with three Brits, an Israeli and a Canadian to earn our way (and four busloads of people) across the border. We won 1-0 with the sheer determination to get to Copacabana that day... if we hadn’t won, who knows how long we would have been delayed. And, chalk one up for me... for the assist on the only goal! But running around at 3830 meters nearly killed me.
Hikichinikama (see you soon, in Aymara)
From that touristy stop, where I managed to learn a little bit of the Aymara language, we drifted to Amantani where the folks still use Quechua. (Remember, Quechua is the language reminant of the Incas who lived north of Puno- Peru and Ecuador- but Aymara is for places south of Puno- and into Bolivia). I was able to pratice the language another time as we arrived on an island for a homey experience. I stayed with Miguel, from Valencia, Spain , in Emiliana and Ruben's quaint island home. We ate the island-grown carrots and potatoes, eggs and breads in the forms of soups, stews and sandwiches, without any meat. Healthy and real describe that place- No wonder Ruben told us his uncle has been living for 130 years!!! Beautiful sunsets and sunrises left me in awe as I climbed to the tops of both Pachatata and Pachamama (Mother Earth and Father Earth)... The second day I had an amazing, fresh, Titcaca trout after a small tour of the island called Taquille (no, not the drink!)... and then the arrival in Puno. I finished up the investigation with the police and they encouraged me to continue the journey...
So, I tried crossing the border again... except this time, it was closed when our bus arrived. It was because the border and customs officials insisted on playing a soccer (fútbol) game... an international one. And it was impossible for anyone to pass until this happened. I joined up with three Brits, an Israeli and a Canadian to earn our way (and four busloads of people) across the border. We won 1-0 with the sheer determination to get to Copacabana that day... if we hadn’t won, who knows how long we would have been delayed. And, chalk one up for me... for the assist on the only goal! But running around at 3830 meters nearly killed me.
Hikichinikama (see you soon, in Aymara)
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